Suspension Fork Removal procedure on a threadless fork, real time. Upgrading to a Fox 36 and a Fox DPS. Let’s Go! Suspension Fork Removal procedure I real time. Upgrading to a Fox 36 and a Fox DPS.
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This is personalized hands on bicycle mechanic training classes taught in a small setting meant for the beginner or advanced person. Typically one on one, a maximum of three persons occasionally. You are welcome to bring your bike to class to diagnose, repair or build. All tools and materials (including shop bikes) are provided to you.
Also offering certificates for the 40 and 70 hour class. for those seeking employment in the industry. Flexible start times to meet your schedule.
Location: San Jose California 95125.
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Want to go ahead and start by replacing The fork special tools you might need Something to get your crown race Enlodged from your steer tube there are Tools out there where you could use you Know a punch and a hammer but We’re going to take this wheel off get The bulky stuff out of the way Hydraulic line is going to be Disconnected from the fork Let’s put this guy back here so we don’t Lose it so we’re going to use a five Millimeter hex tool get this off this Bolt of here very probably going to be a Two mil 2.5 little hex for this little Bolt for the clamp there Going to try 2.5 Nice I think Fox should be the same this Is a rock shock here See if we can unthread this from the Fork the bolt will say oh the bolt may Want to come out Basically a plastic clamp here to get That bolt out or see if we can separate That there we go And you could get this back onto your Bike so we don’t lose it nothing wrong As long as the forks are still in good Shape this is a newish bike but Ryder Knows what he wants he’s getting better At his skills so he’s going to upgrade I Think I definitely recommend that get Used to your bike so when you upgrade You know what the heck you’re getting
Better performance [Applause] And let’s see so this is our caliper two Bolts and it has a Extension or adapter So this Fork may have been outfitted to Run a say a one 80 but then they added a Two millimeter or 20 millimeter Spacer here so they could run a larger Diameter disc brake so all this is going To come off together and if you see a Little o-ring come out with your screws All that was was to just hold your bolt In there with your caliper and your Spacer there so you don’t lose it but Totally not necessary it’s just more of A holder so I’m going to put this back Through because in here you got some Spacers these are actually just Extension spacers the archonical concave I did drop an O-ring so I’m going to run My screw through put that O-ring back on And it just keeps this screw from Falling out as I’m as we’re moving it Around not going to lose any of your Spacers Again those are extension spacers Because if your screws too long you Don’t want to bottom out inside your Fork But caliper is sitting flat to your Extension there now the fork is free Fork’s going to come off away from the Bike we don’t need anything Tethered to
The fork on the bike so totally separate So we got a top cap we have a nut up Here that’s our preload adjusting I Screw up on the top If you find a little rubber booty in the Nut that’s just for Cosmetics if you Lose it not a huge deal but we’ll try And hang on to that So this is adjusting then we have two Screws on the stem those are your most Important ones that are keeping Everything in alignment otherwise you Lose your steering doesn’t matter which One you disconnect or loosen first top One here that’s going to be a four [Applause] So this one will come out 100 and then The two side ones If you can’t get this loose you might Have to loosen up your stem first we’re Taking this top cap screw top cap Itself and then this one has two spacers So we’re going to try and transfer Basically give the same height as this One is here because the person can still Play with the adjustments there as far As attack height so now everything still Stays in place and we got another four Mil here so there’s two bolts these just Have to crack them loose a little bit I’m going to switch tools See if I can get a little more space Probably not running this stuff so Loosen that
Two three revolutions bolts don’t need To come out a hundred percent That way you don’t lose them Okay as soon as you do that definitely Hang on to your fork or you have a strap Holding your fork to the frame could be A little stiff or it could just drop Right away so always hang it onto your Fork Slide this guy off up And then your Fork’s going to want to Fall at the same time we’re also going To have more spacers there so the Handlebars they can hang for a second as Long as they’re not pinching or creasing Any housings So I’m going to take we’ve got like About four or five spacers here And then we have a top cap this is where You want to put everything in the order On your table so you can reverse order And make sure you don’t mess up your And then we got a bearing here and this Is top and bottom specific so pay Attention to that good time to wipe Stuff down clean and re-grease your Headset basically we’re in here where we Could do a headset overhaul Torque’s going to come down could be a Bearing coming with your fork or could Be stuck in the frame I don’t see it Here on the fork so I don’t see a Bearing here I do see some silver that’s My crown race that’ll come off later the
Bearing’s not here so it’s still in the Frame And usually fingers will just be gentle Gentle wedging out because it’s circular And it’s a tight fit So you kind of gotta go very gently kind Of picking size there we go and again Top and bottom specific Don’t get this upside down you will have A poor headset it won’t spin very well All right so we’ve got a steer tube Yeah definitely been cut and then we Have our Crown race right here cool Thing about this one is Call it good or bad but the crown race I Can move it with my finger there’s a Split so it’s like the letter c with Just a small slot for an opening so this One the good thing about it is it comes Off very easily so I can just do some Gentle oh yeah Channel wedging it just needs to move up About five mils or so and then it’s free Other styles will be wedged on here at The base though they’re going to Probably press on with friction about Again about four or five millimeters It’s hammered on Boom to get it off We’re either wedging it with a punch and A hammer or we have another special Device that kind of goes over the steer Tube gets fingers wedges underneath it And pries it up very gently so we got Top bearing bottom bearing so definitely
A little little dark in color in there But not horrible a newish bike I’m sure We got some decent amount of rides on it But uh Um grease is hard to tell what color the Grease was I’m not feeling any grit Maybe just slightly not really though Give those a good wipe down get your Fingers in there now is a good time to Get fingers on those bearings it’s going To give you a lot more information spin The inside hold the outside or vice Versa you just want to get that feel It should be nice and smooth and buttery No tight spots no no greediness no Crunchy sounds And that’s that sounds about right Because it’s still a newish bike But when it comes time you can always Upgrade your your bearings so right now We’re looking at the head tube that’s The top And the race is basically built into the Frame this could be in carbon as well But all this area right here this can Get a wipe down We just want that area nice and smooth And clean we can always do a fresh layer Of Grease when we’re ready to reinstall But just basically wipe down with the Clean rag that’s all you need And just checking for nice flattened Surfaces no scoring gouging or anything Like that and you’re doing the same to
The bottom cleaning that out Six
