How to remove a Sram Crankset, threaded 30 mm spindle only. Let’s go!

How to remove a Sram Crankset, threaded 30 mm spindle only. The following videos will cover the bottom bracket removal and installation of a Shimano bottom bracket and Shimano XT crankset.

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We are going to replace some drivetrain So this is the Santa Cruz Hightower CC We're going to replace the cassette We're going from SRAM to Shimano so Going from XD rear hub driver to a micro Spline Shimano we're going to be going To a cassette which is a Shimano XT so Basically we're running a partial Drivetrain we're doing a hybrid we're Sticking with a SRAM axis rear Derailleur or Wireless along with the Wireless shifter but everything else Would be Shimano so understanding is we Will be able to Pedal a little harder Under pressure and make a gear change Usually we're lighting off on gear pedal Pressure when we do a gear change Usually recommended the electronic Shifting may allow you to apply a little More shifting pressure or pedaling Pressure but then upgrading to this Shimano cassette along with Shimano Chain Shimano drivetrain in the front so We're going crank set and chainring that Electronic axis shifting should allow us To have maybe crispier shifts and under Pressure and stress so that's the idea We're going to do it test it see what we Got assistant So I'm going to go ahead and start here You can start with cassette you can Start with the crank set Um here we got an MRP chain guide so we Got to get this out of the way

These are your four mil hex tool You might be able to loosen it and just Kind of move this partially might allow You to take the chain off There we go And just to make sure make sure you Don't lose that screw there So chain is coming off we're going to Find the quick link on this we're going To disassemble that And here we go And I'm just using the park tool it's It's the quick link remover just going To give it a squeeze should hear it fill A little pop little indent a little bit Of friction These are good for one two three maybe Disassembly reassembly because every Time you open and close it you wear it Out so if you're doing a race or you Don't want to have any issues just Replace it right off the bat no Questions asked so crank sets coming off Next typically an eight millimeter hex Tool is used it's either we're on the Drive side if you're sitting on the bike This is the right side looks like this Is it and sometimes the bolt can be Located depending on your make model it Can be located over here on the opposite Side but the opposite side is a Completely Hollow it can stick my finger In there So definitely recommend this arm over

The top tube armpit sitting on top of That top tube have the crank arm closest To you on my my right side over here so I can grab that I can put my hand on the Pedal or the crank arm And then I'm going to keep this so Horizontal horizontal and we're going Counterclockwise so I'm lifting up Pushing down on this side and I just Need to crack it free This is going to be a tight one And don't be afraid to move this around In your repair stand your repair stand Is going to be your best friend So if this is hasn't been taken off Before these these can be torqued to 52 54 newton meters and they can be a bear Oh yeah so this is going to be Oh my god really tough so we're gonna Have to get some extensions get some Better leverage all right so I was able To break that free Um these can be really tough they may Put them at one at 54 newton meters the Highest they can go which can be a Nightmare for whoever has to take this Off so I've heard of people using an Impact wrench I don't know if that's Recommended if you use it definitely Know what you're doing you just gotta Crack it free it just has to move that Quarter inch half inch or so and then it Should be home free after that but do The best you can with regular tools get

Good good length extensions and uh get a Buddy all right so this definitely has To come off this whole unit's coming out And Uh looks like I may clear this chain if Not just take it off hang on to your Crank arm So it's backing out you definitely need This outer ring here this ring has one Two three four has four little holes Might be four or six that ring you need That if you lose it you need to get it Replaced because it's part of your self Extraction system there's an inner bolt That wants to come out this ring will Stop the bolt from coming out which will Then hold on to your or force your crank To come off and get it off there because It's held in with a lot of friction So you and also the other thing if you See two torque numbers this one just Says 54 but sometimes it'll say 54 and Then it says eight millimeter hex that's The tool but it may give you another Number of like five or ten newton meters Something really low telling you that's What this ring is supposed to be torqued To which is confusing because you you Feel like you need to take this ring on Or off at some point which you do not Definitely do not touch that outer ring Here we go we're free and then this Should slide out from the other side Crank arms to just pull right out if

It's tough get a rubber mallet do some Gentle Taps as you're pulling on the Other side and it'll pull that whole Shaft out [Music] And when you do this beware there may be A seal cover coming off with it or might Be stuck to your bearing here same with The other side you might have a spacer On one side or the other so things may Fall or hit the ground keep an eye on What fell where it came from this is the Left side or non-drive side this looks Pretty good we just have and get my Fingers on this bearing give it a spin Should feel super smooth should not feel Tough should not feel gritty should not Have any tight spots but there's I don't See it still here but there could be a Seal and it just really Blends in if it Stays in place great nothing wants to Come off so just keep that in mind that Looks good on that one this is the right Side if we're sitting on the bike or Drive side this looks like it may have Something there we go so this is just a Spacer uh might be a five mil or ten mil Spacer that's needed on this drive side If you don't have this your chainring is Going to sit closer to the frame and Your chain may want to hit your frame There so definitely needed but looks Very similar to the other side at this Point it spins really nice

So you're doing an inspection if you Need to you have Creeks you could always Take your bottom bracket out use the Appropriate tool take that out Santa Cruz uses a threaded bottom bracket Which is great super versatile it's an Industry standard you can take that out Clean your threads on the bottom bracket On the frame re-grease re-torque this to A proper setting you can do a little Quick little overhaul there since it's a SRAM crank set we have a Schram bottom Bracket it is running a 30 millimeter Spindle These are carbons so they're amazingly Light but thickness and diameter here That's the shaft or spindle 30 Millimeters so you're having a 30 Millimeter opening there We are going to Shimano which is running A skinnier spindle So therefore we've got to use uh the Appropriate Shimano Bottom bracket so we're going from 30 Down to I think this is like 24 or 25 Millimeters

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