How to install a Fox 36 fork with all details and connecting videos. Lets do this.

How to install a Fox 36 fork with all details and connecting videos. I have added links to all the procedures to cut the steerer tube, adding the star nut and brake caliper adjustment.

Mobile (408) 210-2980

This is personalized hands on bicycle mechanic training classes taught in a small setting meant for the beginner or advanced person. Typically one on one, a maximum of three persons occasionally. You are welcome to bring your bike to class to diagnose, repair or build. All tools and materials (including shop bikes) are provided to you.
Also offering certificates for the 40 and 70 hour class. for those seeking employment in the industry. Flexible start times to meet your schedule.

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Someone says nice and clean you’re going To have a lip we want the lip facing Upward Super flat on the bottom the split can Go anywhere there’s no orientation on The steer tube and just slide this on Drop it push it down as long as it looks It feels like it made full contact You’re done the split’s actually sitting Here like I said I could spin it put it Anywhere it doesn’t matter put it Sitting flat there we’re going to put a Layer of grease on that when we’re ready To reinstall All right so when you come in definitely Want to move your bars up so you get Between all your cabling I’m going to go Ahead and reinstall my lower bearing And we’re going to put a little Grease On the base That’s our Crown race Very similar amount to what we did for The race on the bottom on the headset Frame And then orientation wise I have a Little a minor angle at the top very Flat on the bottom so I want the Flatness to sit on the flatness here So flat here slight angle that’s going To mesh that Angle inside the frame You know just keep that pressure upward And from here you could give it a little Turn left and right just make sure

Things are feeling decent Again it should feel pretty buttery Smooth Wipe any excess grease that got on the Steer tube we don’t want grease there Where the stem is going to clamp Come back with our bearing I already got Grease inside here angled portion facing Down It’s going to mesh up perfectly And then we have our little top cap Slash Angle extension here basically this guy Splits when you press down on it it’s Going to take any any wobble that we Have in here once this gets pressed down It kind of takes a lot of that away Then we’re going to follow it up with The amount of same amount of spacers That he had Three four it’s got about four one two Three four and these are about five mil That’s that’s not a bad a bad number to Have if you’re just trying to feel out a Bike And we’re going with our stem make sure Orientation is correct Always keep a hand on your fork if you Got to walk away put a strap on it of Some sort Okay now I have A couple more spacers that was on there I’m going to follow the same thing Gives yourself a little leeway you could

Use it as your marker from that point You’re going to go down about three mil And you’re going to make another line Cut and that’s what we’re actually going To cut so the steer tube is going to Fall three millimeters below the top Surface of whatever you have here Whether it’s a spacer or a stem Always got to have three millimeters of A gap to allow for proper adjustment and That’ll that’ll come in later And then here we got a little lip Showing still but that’s where our Two other spaces came into play so it Just gives you a little more room to Play with Just in case you want to play with your Your stem height here Rule of thumb is if uh say you’re Downhilling all you’re doing is Downhilling And your body’s kind of shifted back Usually there’s no spacers the stem is Slammed all the way down to the body or To the frame that’s going to give you a Little bit quicker steering think of it Say you had a huge gap or see you had a 12 inch Gap here by the time you turn Your bar it kind of translates into a Slow Tire turn so your steering is going To be very delayed before I tighten that The pressure up Stem down just kind of compressing Everything

And I’m not too worried about Handlebar being straight or not I’m Going to Snug this up pretty good just One bolt it’s going to hold everything For me if I gotta let go get my arm a Break there Um And you’re just giving it a little turn Checking your Gap here similar to what You had before so hopefully you check That gap before you disassembled some Bikes may have a one mil Gap two mil Three four or five so Uh everything’s turning good uh if Things were something was wrong it would Let you know right now it would turn Very roughly it wouldn’t flop around Like that got to feel like melted butter Uh if it’s raining running rough and you May not know this until we do final Adjustment so all I did was compress With my hand so I already have my Sternut in its place This is going to sit on top and my slide Sleeve is going to slide over Just like that so now I have room I’m Nowhere near my stems got plenty of room Here all I’m going to do is brace the Frame or base the bottom of the fork I’m Going to smack this top here make sure The bike’s secure in the repair stand Nothing’s loose and then we’re just Going to pound this so there’s a gap Here that’s going to drive itself down

It’s going to disappear and it’s going To drive the star nut into a certain Spot And it will stop for me You can hear that tone change then You’re going to unscrew this guy Releasing it from the Star nut This here so I just got all the Looseness out with fingertips now I’m Just going to give it a gentle snugging Maybe a half turn feel a little bit of Resistance that’s you know you’re Touching your bearings good chance you Took a good majority if not all your Your play out you still want to be Moving give it a little turn Still spinning nice and smooth like Butter so everything went well just Gonna Do a rough alignment with the handlebars In the fork And right now I just went to one bolt Here The Fork’s going to stay in place it’s Not going anywhere So we can go ahead and hook up our Caliper which kind of Intertwined here and your routing you Put the fox Forks you’re going to run The line in between the fork legs It’s going to sit like that so your Housing is going to look closest to the Wheeler’s spokes looks counterintuitive But that works

That’s the way they want it and haven’t Seen any issues whatsoever make sure you Have red orientation Any logos on your caliper you want to be Able to read them And make sure you have the appropriate Bolts if you have a long bolt short bolt Make sure it’s going in the proper Location you don’t want to stick a long Bolt in a short Side of the fork If you do just turn gently you may feel Some extras it’s just letting you know That hey you bottomed out And again I’m going to keep these Bolts I’m going to go 100 tight there Boom back off maybe One revolution that’s going to keep the Caliper a little bit loose If I tighten it up it could be in a Wrong position it will not accept the Wheel or rotor so you just want some Jiggle right there So that’s good and then we can go ahead And put our cable routing a little cinch Clamp here on your fork let’s see so They gave us a new one give us a new Little plastic clamp It’s going to be a little square area And that’s like a little rubber pad or Foam pad Actually they changed it used to be a Foam pad with an adhesive but that would Fall off over time so now they just gave

Us a piece of plastic with a square Orientation it’s going to fit in there It’s going to match it up So we’re going to clamp around our hose And this little bolt has a little bit of Uh white or yellowish material and it’s Just a splash Anytime you see some type of paint on Your threads it’s most likely a thread Locker Smaller the bolt the less torque we use Which means it could also work its way Free so the thread Locker is going to Keep Those screws from vibrating free it’s Going to stop them from moving So this guy is offering a little bit of A challenge got the plastic piece that Actually wants to stay open but we need The screw to run through here All the way through so it can make Contact with your fork so we need to Squeeze that closed get enough screw Purchase to come through so we can get It started here without screwing up our Threads in the fork we’re going to try This all by itself Just you’re going to get the idea of What angle what line you need to take Coming in Yeah see that right there I got it That engaged right there And another small little detail so the Paint the thread Locker they put on

There they did a good job because they Put it more or less in the middle they Left me two three threads of free no Paint on it so that means I can have a Good shot of getting in here cleanly Rather than hitting a thread Locker Right off the bat so I can kind of get An idea of what line I need that’s That’s my straight line so I could be Off this way I could be off this way This way or And now that I know that now I gotta Fight the plastic as well as this Hydraulic line The screw through expose my threads then Focus on a straight line Easier said than done All with finding the appropriate Pressure Sweet got it And I’m going to do this nice and snug Two fingertips As soon as you feel it hit stop we’re Going to go just a little extra boom and In most cases you still can slide this Through if you need to if you can’t Slide this up or down just loosen a Little bit and then pull appropriately So I need to pull this slack up so I’m Going to loosen this a little bit Pull my hose up That’s a tough one So I’m pulling all my slack upward There we go

Of course I may leave this loose for now I’m going to align my caliper first then I’ll come back here and pull my slat Because when I pull this up it actually Wants to move the whole caliper so I’m going to leave whatever slack it Needs but don’t forget to come back and Tighten that guy just a real thin Coating of grease a transparent coat of Grease on this a little bit on the Threads and you’ll be okay it’s such a Tight fit if you overdo it on the grease It’s just gonna Kind of accumulate on the end and make a Big mess I’m just going to put a little Splash there Splash there A little bit on the thread And then just move it around by finger Foreign [Applause] So here’s a little issue this on this Newer Fork We have a smallish opening this round is Right here That’s a smaller opening than what is Shown on my stock original Hub on my Ends the cap ends let’s take a look This whole diameter is much too big Bigger than the open I just showed you On the fork so this needs to come off These do kind of they’re kind of Free-floating they are end caps they’re Going to pull that off see if we can It’ll adapt to the to the fork

Can’t get it with finger now there we go These might need an adapter so I’m Seeing bearing right there we might need Another cap style cap

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